Tuesday, April 7, 2026

ABC Islands: Bonaire: The Southern Journey (February 09, 2026)

We docked at Kralendijk, Bonaire’s capital, at 7 a.m. With a comfortable hired Chevy SUV waiting, our plan was simple yet full of promise: circumnavigate the island in search of birds and adventure. The route would take us south toward the salt flats, around to Sorobon, back through the capital around mid‑day, then north to Rincon before looping through the rugged Washington Slagbaai National Park. By 5 p.m., we aimed to conclude the journey back on board the ship.

Bare‑eyed Pigeon
Even before leaving the port, the birding had already begun. On our short walk to collect the vehicle, we encountered the ubiquitous and comical Bare‑eyed Pigeon (Patagioenas corensis), the ever‑present Tropical Mockingbird (Mimus gilvus), and the invasive House Sparrows (Passer domesticus). Sharing the rocks with these birds were Green Iguanas (Iguana iguana), their prehistoric appearance a striking reminder of the island’s wild character—an unforgettable sight to behold.

First Lifer of the trip - Reddish Egret 
The first stop after leaving the port was a wetland just outside Kralendijk at the capital’s ponds, where I was overjoyed to spot my first lifer of the trip: a Reddish Egret (Egretta rufescens). Other wading birds were scattered across the shallows and mudflats, feeding gracefully in the morning light.
Continuing our journey, we paused at a beach just past Flamingo International Airport to check out another remarkable creature—a lizard unlike any we see at home. Much longer than our familiar anoles, it carried an impressively long tail. What truly caught our attention was its coloration: a stunning blend of gray and brown, accented with shimmering shades of blue and green. Later I learned this striking reptile was the Bonaire Whiptail Lizard (Cnemidophorus murinus).

Bonaire Whiptail Lizard
The salt flats were breathtaking. First the towering salt pyramids came into view, followed by the shimmering pink lakes spread across the flats. We made a brief stop at the salt pier, the loading point where salt is transferred onto ships for export and collected a few salt blocks as souvenirs.
Just offshore, two Brown Boobies (Sula leucogaster) perched on a buoy, while an Osprey (Pandion haliaetus) circled above, scanning the waters for its next fish. A signboard highlighting the birdlife of the area caught my attention, and I later learned it was part of an important conservation partnership between BirdsCaribbean, the salt field manager Cargill, and other collaborators. (Read here).
Flamingos nest building
Moving on from the salt flats, we made stops at the historic slave huts and the Willemstoren Lighthouse, built in 1837. Along the way, we paused periodically for birding, adding several species of shorebirds and herons, as well as Royal Terns (Thalasseus maximus), Brown Pelicans (Pelecanus occidentalis), of course the iconic American Flamingos (Phoenicopterus ruber) and Donkeys. Some of these stops were part of the Caribbean Waterbird Census, administered by Birds Caribbean.

We returned to the capital just after noon to begin our northern trek. The day was already full of adventure, birds, and lifers—so look out for that post.

ABC Islands Bird Species Tally:

Species Seen: 30    Lifers: 1

Birds Seen: Rock Pigeon, Bare-eyed Pigeon, White-tipped Dove, Eared Dove, Black-necked Stilt (190), Black-bellied Plover, Semipalmated Plover, Short-billed Dowitcher, Lesser Yellow Legs, Greater Yellowlegs, Ruddy Turnstone, Stilt Sandpiper, Sanderling, Least Sandpiper, Semipalmated Sandpiper, Royal Tern, American Flamingo, Brown Booby, Tricolored Heron, Reddish Egret, Snowy Egret, Great Egret, Great Blue Heron, Brown Pelican, Osprey, Brown-throated Parakeet, Tropical Mockingbird, House Sparrow, Carib Grackle, Bananaquit.

Link to Images 

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